Hiking in Val Vertova

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We really couldn't have asked for more on this particular outing. The trail in Val Vertova is full of beautiful scenes like this, where you have the option of taking it easy all the way to the end or stopping in an idyllic spot to soak up the sun. I've never seen perfectly tanned boobs in full display until this hike, but with such an inviting environment, why the heck not?

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To get to the starting point: from Vertova, follow Via Cinque Martini until località Lacni. Instead of following the right bend in the road, take the left for about 300 meters until the parking lot (B). If it's full, space is available at the headquarters of Gruppo Alpinistico Vertovese (GAV) a hundred meters going back and across the stream (A), but only if the gates are open. It takes about an hour to reach the end of the trail. For a challenge, head up the n.527 that climbs the left just before reaching the end. It quickly leads back down to the river then continues into drier terrain up the mountain to the encampment of Bivacco Testa.

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Hiking Pizzino to Fraggio (Val Taleggio, Bergamo)

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Pizzino (24 miles north of Bergamo)
to Fraggio (light blue line)

It shouldn't come as a surprise that I consider this to be more of a stroll because all it involves is less than 30 minutes of putting one foot in front of the other. The trail begins from Agriturismo Il Pavone in Pizzino that continues on a dirt path passing their farm, and the point of interest here is an ancient (15th century?) church - Chiesetta San Lorenzo - which sits amidst rural surroundings. So rural, in fact, and so quiet, that after I took the image below and walked around the church, I returned to see a cow in the exact same spot where I had been only minutes before. Apparently the beasts come and go as they please.

Getting to Pizzino is a natural wonder in itself since the road through Val Taleggio follows along a deep gorge that has no shortage of splashing, flowing, cascading water during spring. There is one "the Rock fountain" in particular that sits on the side of the road as a sort of ambassador to the valley. Too bad he's not spitting wine. I got the westie to pose but the doxie wasn't having any of it. To find it: here's the gps coordinates [45.88820N 9.60245E].

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Hiking in Fuipiano Valle Imagna (Bergamo) - part I

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Il tetto della Valle Imagna (the roof of Imagna valley). We liked this hike so much that four days later I cooked up some yummy Hawaii-style eats and we went back for more. Trails around Lecco and Como may boast magical views of the lakes, but just 19 miles northwest of Bergamo the landscape is no less enchanting. This photo was taken high above the village of Fuipiano Valle Imagna (pop. 240, bottom left). We live over the mountain range in the far distance - you can barely make out the line of signal towers at the crest - so that gives an idea of how right in the middle of hiking heaven we are.

From Fuipiano Valle Imagna to Zuc di Valbona - 50 minutes

A metal crucifix marks the location which is easily seen from Fuipiano on a clear day. Once at the top, you'll have a pick of great spots to spread out a picnic lunch, but be forewarned that getting there means a very steep climb that will give your thigh, calf and derriere muscles a workout! In the photo below, you can just make out the exposed trail on the right that climbs along the face of the mountain.

Right, left, right, right. Take those directions at each fork along the way and it will lead to the above-mentioned 20% grade that ends at a storage building before finally curving up to Zuc di Valbona. Google map: to get to where the trail begins, upon reaching Fuipiano (A), drive to the end of via Milano (B). There are a couple of parking areas on the side of the road. From here an asphalt passage (authorized vehicles only) goes up to private pasture and you'll soon meet the first fork in this itinerary. This trail coasts along the 579 until it (#579) branches off into the forest after the last fork. Heading in the direction of the red arrow, the ultra steep climb soon comes into view.

15th century village Arnosto

Don't miss the nearby località of Arnosto (look for white on brown signposts) when visiting Fuipiano Valle Imagna. It has been restored to picture postcard condition and even has its own page - Amici di Arnosto - on Facebook.

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Hiking the Dorsale del Triangolo Lariano from Brunate

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This is probably the most popular itinerary for visitors who wish to hike and experience the altitudes above Lake Como in a day. The Dorsale Triangolo Lariano, a 30 km trail that begins from Brunate and runs the dorsal ridge to Bellagio, is a 2-day affair if covering it by foot. We managed a fourth of that distance in beautiful weather this past Saturday, completing a total of 15 km/9.3 miles going in and coming back. It was worth every step of the way.

The suggested route says to start from Como, reaching Brunate by way of the funicular tram (4.50€ adults, roundtrip). For those with wheels, the road to Brunate is narrow and winding, but it might be worth the drive up to nab a cheaper (or free) parking spot in town. Hourly rates for parking within the blue lines in Como have doubled since we last visited. It's now 1 euro per hour, with the rate skyrocketing up to 2.50€/hr in the lot next to the funicular station. We drove up to Brunate in the suv and parked for free.

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Google illustrates that A is where we parked; B is the end of public road access/last parking lot. It doesn't calculate anything beyond that. Commencing from Brunate's church square, the footpath takes on a multitude of names of which I've stuck in a slideshow with the rest of the images. No chance of ending up at Clooney's villa. The red X is where we called it a day and had lunch. The yellow dot to the right is Rifugio Bolettone. We were so close, yet so very far, and in the opinion of our doxie Mister B, completely out of our minds for even walking all this way. We reckon that he's the "gasoline-powered" out of the two - has more varoom in the motor but can't go far. Maddie on the other hand, is "diesel fuel" - she's the weaker in strength but can keep up no matter the distance, as long as we have plenty of water to top up her radiator.

Altitude climbed: 630 meters, more or less.
Time: 4 hours on the ascent, 3 hours on the return.
Map: Kompass 91 - Lago di Como and Lago di Lugano

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Hiking in Fuipiano Valle Imagna (Bergamo) - part II

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Replenishing the carbs: fried teriyaki-ginger chicken wings, pancit (filipino noodles), brownie triangles with visciola (sour cherry) jam, and sweet Duroni cherries from Puglia.

This is what I consider a picnic snack — food portions that weigh light in my backpack but have greater appeal than Pringles, Gatorade and store-bought energy bars. And why the food image first? Because for non-hiking readers, the rest of this post won't make much sense at all so I figured that I'd take care of the essentials first. This loop trail follows in the opposite direction from where we had hiked above Fuipiano Valle Imagna a few days earlier, and to be honest, I felt absolutely cheated when the GPS stats revealed the actual dislivello completed (difference in height from top to bottom). It was about 487 meters...only 1598 feet! It took us a brief three ½ hours total - a piece of cake worth snacking on.

Again, the trail starts at the end of via Milano but upon reaching the 2nd fork, you take a right instead of a left. Trail 579a to Tre Faggi (FAH-jee) immediately leads into shady woods before opening out onto a pasture and watering hole for cows. Soon thereafter is where we ran into a bit of trouble when the red/white marker stones led away from the main road and up into the woods again. It was clear going in until a thick layer of fallen leaves made us lose sight of the path (that would be the red hiker below), forcing us to blindly go along until we heard voices from higher up. It was almost comedic because Maddie must've thought we were on an easter egg hunt or something - yap! yap! yap! - while Mr B was pulling hard at his leash, causing the MotH to lose his balance on the leafy incline. The doxie probably knew where to go but who's to say that he wasn't onto the scent of a fox or rabbit? Fortunately it was only a small section of woods, and upon meeting the above-mentioned hikers who knew the place like the back of their hand, we were pointed in the right direction.

The Tre Faggi or Tri Fò as they are called in bergamasc dialect, are 3 large beech trees that just beg to be part of some sort of ancient legend with the looks of their gnarled branches. From here, the loop trail changes direction and connects to 571, climbing to even greater heights above the treeline. The views at the top are incredible, and there is one tricky spot where the narrow path hugs close to the side of the mountain. Eventually it ends at the statuette of the Madonna dei Canti before finally pointing the way back down to Fuipiano.

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Hiking in Canzo (Como): Rifugio Terz'Alpe

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All that snow last Wednesday? Pfffffft! Gone in 2 days like some flailing lightweight when the sun blew into town. By Friday it was a definite go for spring hiking conditions anywhere on a south-facing trail, and this is a fairly easy one (ascent of 317 meters) that I suggest if you're not afraid of the woods. I felt as if someone was watching me...

All kidding aside, there is, or there should be, an area along the path where carved wooden creatures exist in il Sentiero dello Spirito del Bosco (the path of the spirit of the woods). Well, not that I was expecting an Ent-like entity to walk up and start shaking my hand or anything, but we didn't see friendly tree people and probably walked right past in our quest to reach that steaming bowl of polenta and cheese at the end of the road. I suspect that if we had explored the large picnic area at the first stop/info point, this guy with the owl may have willingly posed for my lens.

Photo: www.flickr.com/photos/finny1975 / CC BY-SA 2.0

Getting there

The trailhead to Rifugio Terz'Alpe is a short distance from Canzo at the end of via Gaium [B], but we kept seeing "no entry/parking" signs like these on the way up and thought better to park at the designated areas for visitors [A]. Upon reaching Canzo, look for the "P" on brown street signs to Gajum - ample parking where via Rimembranze and via Gasperi intersect at the cemetary. From there it's only about a 20-minute walk on paved road (uphill of course!) with easy-to-spot GAJUM signs pointing the way. I imagine that this trail is quite popular with families, hikers with dogs, and nature lovers of all ages, thus the need to restrict traffic on weekends when everyone escapes to the mountains to let loose in the woods.

To Rifugio Terz'Alpe

This can be enjoyed as a loop trail - percorso ad anello - tackling thigh-busting Via Per le Alpi on the left and returning by way of Via San Miro. The path initially zigzags through peaceful forest on sun-dappled stones, arriving at the first rest point/info center (40 minutes) where I missed seeing the wood sculptures. From this point, Rifugio Terze'Alpe is a half hour away on flat terrain. The return on via San Miro takes about 45 minutes.

The food

There is nothing like a rustic, hearty meal of polenta taragna (corn and buckwheat polenta), pizzoccheri and cheese made on the premises. Add to that a quarter liter of cheap, local wine and you're set for the lazy stroll back home. The total came to 22€ for 3 plates - cheap! No credit cards or receipt given (i.e. they don't pay taxes???)

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Hiking in Parre (Bergamo) and its famous Scarpinocc

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We're expanding our horizons (and stomachs) to include the province of Bergamo, specifically the mountains and valleys up north where cheese, pasta, polenta and even the language take on a flavor all its own. From what we've experienced, the vast Bergamo Alps is still largely untouched by foreign tourists as most everyone heads directly to Lake Como from Milan. Depending on your view that may be seen as a good or bad thing, but we hope to reveal some of the beauty on these pages. But first, what is this scarpinocc? I can't recall exactly how I first heard of them, but when the MotH and I walked into a pasta shop and asked if they had any to sell, we were told that the best place to go would be in the village in which they were made famous - Parre. Scarpinocc are a filled pasta (grana, bread crumbs, cinnamon, nutmeg) that resemble those medieval, pointed shoes worn long before rubbah slippahs and sneakers were conceived - think elf footwear and you should have an idea. It is supposed to be the leaner version to Bergamo's meat-filled casoncelli. Well, leaner in theory perhaps, but certainly not when it comes swimming in a pool of browned butter and doused with more grated grana cheese! I believe that Julia Child would have loved this.

For a better look at the pre-boiling stage, see this great image from a flickr user.

It was pure luck that the restaurant in Hotel Belvedere (Via Roma, 35) was still serving at 1:30pm because we were so hungry after that 1600+ foot climb that I could've eaten a horse and a half! Here's another dish that I had never heard of - capu - tiny cabbage rolls in tomato sauce on polenta (they don't look like cabbage leaves but that's what the waitress said) filled with bread crumbs, cheese and herbs. Delicious. As a starter we both shared a plate of the house special - a smorgasbord of crunchy, creamy, salty and tangy tastes from land and sea.
Albergo Ristorante Belvedere, Via Roma 35, Parre BG

The 496 meter / 1627 foot climb to Sant’Antonio

From the church on via Monterosso at the upper part of Parre (there's a small parking area behind the church), continue along to via Monterosso 6 until you see an arched passage with a large fresco painting above. Walk under the arch and veer left - almost immediately after that there will be a rock path on the right that leads through the woods. Follow this path and continue forward and upward until you reach a parking area and fountain. From here the trail is on paved cement that continues downward to a hairpin bend. Continue on the pavement for a short distance until you see a trail on the left with indications to Rifugio Vaccaro. From here on the thigh-burning begins. There will be 2 crossroads along the way, both with large stables to the right (beware the cow turds). Keep moving forward and upwards, where finally you'll reach an asphalt road that leads to Sant'Antonio as shown below. It took us 90 minutes on the walk up, and 60 on the return. I suggest hiking poles for this because it'll really be tough on the knees getting back.

A rustic church dedicated to St. Anthony is located between the meadows of Mt. Alino.

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